The Alphabet of Fashion 2025

[Chat–GPT] proper n. Artificial intelligence language model able to generate text and reply in natural language, used in both professional and everyday contexts. Not many people know that the acronym ChatGPT stands for “Chat GenerativePre-trained Transformer”. Almost like a domesticated animal or an ultra-available personal assistant, this language model has practically rewritten the rules of the contemporary world. Life is no longer just about art, literature, science, or design: we now must distinguish between what is human and what is AI. Some hate it, some love it (a bit too much, apparently), some claim not to use it but secretly do, but many now see in the digital chatbot a companion they can rely on. In any case, ChatGPT is here to stay, and we will soon discover its true impact.

[Èight-ies] Eng. n. The nineteen-eighties, a decade marked by intense cultural expansion, bold aesthetics, and pop experimentation. For those who lived through them, they were the decade of kitsch; for those who only saw them in movies, one of the most stylish periods ever; for the fashion industry, an aesthetic goldmine. The 1980s still fascinate the runways, from Saint Laurent to Versace via Celine. Beyond the proportions, what makes a look truly eighties is the attitude, loud, audacious, and opulent. Perhaps, in times of crisis, we must dress as though our mission is to manifest wealth.

[In-di-tèx] proper n. Spanish multinational fast fashion group, owner of brands such as Zara, Bershka, and Massimo Dutti. Should the fashion world fear Inditex? Thanks to its now-regular collaborations with some of the biggest names in the system, the Spanish group conquered the middle market left behind by luxury. Growth has been slower than expected, but 18.4 billion euros in sales in just the first half of the year are far from trifling. The Hortega empire, over which the sun truly never sets, has not only maintained steady profits but has also expanded, with new store openings in London, Paris, and Seoul, a new logistics hub in Spain, sustainability programmes, and customer services. While market waters remain rough, Inditex keeps swimming along undisturbed, while others grasp for air.

[Kér-ing] proper n. French luxury conglomerate that controls Maisons such as Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Bottega Veneta. Before the sun comes the storm: this year has been unforgiving for the world’s second-largest luxury empire, with profits down by 46% in the first half. There is no hiding the crisis that has hit several brands, the burden of debt, and the delayed change of direction. To calm the flames, a new CEO has been called in, Italian executive Luca De Meo, who arrived with solutions radical enough to feel almost revolutionary. Less power to creative directors, restructuring and pruning of dead branches that weigh down the great tree. A new mindset that treats fashion as the mass industry it has in fact become.

[O-ver-tour-ism] Eng. n. Phenomenon of tourist overcrowding that undermines quality of life, environment, and local identity. Both a blessing and a curse for Italians, tourism was the hottest topic of the summer. Is it fair for Airbnbs to snatch homes away from potential residents? Or that entire regions depend economically on endless waves of visitors? Officially, we do not know. Unofficially, we know it is not. The oceanic crowds have ruined what once were poetic seaside towns. The spaces once used for markets are now dedicated to restaurants, and historic centres have been disfigured by the uncontrolled proliferation of horrible little tourist shops. Yet without those crowds, many cities would be on their knees. We cannot live with tourists, but you cannot survive without them either.

[Qui-et Quìt-ting] Eng. n. Work attitude characterized by doing the bare minimum required by the role, avoiding any extra effort. Did you quit your job? In this economy? Much better to pull in the oars and let the current carry you. This year, quiet-quitting has been many young people’s answer to the pressures of an old and oppressive job market. Who cares about teambuilding, about free pizza as a reward for thankless tasks, about passion for a job chosen due to a lack of real alternatives? The point, cynically, is plain and simple: get that bag and go home. It is hard to say who is to blame for the rising phenomenon of quiet-quitting. Is it fault of an increasingly apathetic generation, or of the ruling class so entrenched in silly prejudices and privileges that it has turned work into an exercise as sterile as it is depressing?

[Ul-tra-ma-rà-thon] n. Running race covering a distance longer than a traditional marathon, often held in challenging environmental conditions. In 2025, running is simply no longer enough. Or at least it’s not enough for those who refuse to join a running club and spend their Sunday mornings jogging with friends. This year, ultramarathons have entered everyday life with endless distances covered on wild trails, under weather conditions ranging from scorching heat to tropical downpours - yet another sign of the renewed interest among young people in extreme wellness.

[Yòr-gos Làn-thi-mos] proper n. Greek director known for his visionary style and surreal atmospheres, active in international cinema. Very few directors in contemporary cinema manage to maintain momentum like Greek filmmaker Yorgos Lanthimos. With the release of Bugonia, the unofficial trilogy he began in 2023 with Poor Things! reached a close that speaks directly to the present, between conspiracy theories and artificial intelligence. Beyond what many already consider the film of the year, this year Lanthimos has also stepped into the fashion system, directing a Prada campaign with Scarlett Johansson that celebrated the Galleria, the Italian maison’s most iconic it-bag. The campaign gathered almost 1 million impressions on Instagram.